What About Phosphorus!

What About Phosphorus! Green Wave Products

Phosphorus tends to move downhill across the field to rivers and is less likely to leach vertically into the ground water. AgriPower’s Phosphorus is in a totally soluble form that can be readily taken in by the plants as opposed to most  fertilizers with Phosphorus are in insoluble compounds that are unavailable to plants so most of it is washed into rivers when it rains. This creates Phosphorus contamination.

With the exponential growth of the global population, the agricultural sector is bound to use ever larger quantities of fertilizers to augment the food supply, which consequently increases food production costs. Phosphates, when applied to crops is vulnerable to losses from volatilization and leaching thus leading to serious environmental pollution.

AgriPower’s compounds are non-reactive towards each other as they are made inert by the use of cutting edge plasticizers and state of the art coating technology. The physical intromission of phosphate granules in an appropriate coating material is one such technique used in the manufacture of AgriPower which essentially is a green technology that not only reduces phosphorus loss caused by volatilization and leaching, but also alters the kinetics of phosphorus release, which, in turn, provides nutrients to plants at a pace that is more compatible with their metabolic needs. 

Bees, Colony Collapse Disorder, HYPOTHESIS

It is hypothesized that the herbicide glyphosate is a contributing factor for Colony Collapse Disorder (CCD) of honeybee.  This hypothesis is based on the following:

  • CCD greatly accelerated in the late 1990s coincident with the widespread cultivation of genetically modified soybeans, corn, cotton and canola in commercial agriculture permitting a 3-5 times increase in glyphosate usage and subsequent high exposure of honeybees since
  • The systemic glyphosate is applied directly to the plant foraged by the honeybee at all times of foraging (before, during, after).
  • Glyphosate is applied indiscriminately to the plants and, often, to adjacent areas (since GM crop is tolerant) later in the spring for greater exposure of bees. Often before, during, and after crop growth,
  • Glyphosate accumulates in the meristematic areas of the plant, i.e. flowers, nectar foraged and harvested by bees
  • Glyphosate resistant weeds encouraged much higher rates of glyphosate
  • Loss of direction in adult honeybees (disorientation) is consistent with the endocrine disruption and neurotoxicity caused by glyphosate
  • Glyphosate is a very potent antibiotic to honeybee microbiota (honey crop, honey, pollen, bee-bread) – especially Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium spp.
  • These two genera primarily are critical for nutrition and survival of honeybees and
  • Protect honeybees from pathogens and parasites (Nosema, EFB, etc.). Fungal pathogens are stimulated by glyphosate.
  • Glyphosate and genetically modified crops have lower nutrient density (especially for micronutrients) essential for proper nutrition of honey bees as well as disease resistance.
  • Glyphosate concentrations in air, water, and plant tissues are highest during, or just prior to, colony collapse.
  • Glyphosate predisposes to malnutrition, pathogenesis, and other stresses.

A Satisfied Customer in Hawaii at Turtle Bay Golf Course

To Whom It May Concern:

 Subject: AgriPOWER

 At Turtle Bay Golf, we have been using Agripower fertilizer for a little over 1 year. Upon first use, I was skeptical. The green bottle is not very big and I wondered how that small amount of fertilizer could possibly be more economical than our usual slow-release fertilizers. For one thing, the application rate is extremely low. For new plants, I use a rate of .35oz/gal and for established plants and turf grasses I use a rate of .71oz/gal. It turns out that little green bottle goes a long way.

I applied a first application and within 7 days I noticed my plants were greening up and growing more quickly than usual. I didn’t notice a real change in the turf grass. I reapplied Agripower 10 days after the first application and waited for results. There were more leaves and nodes on the young plants and the established plants had healthier blooms. Gardenias were blooming that I had never seen a flower on before.

Since those first few applications, I have used Agripower on a bi-weekly basis, and almost all of my plants seem to be thriving. The only complaint I have is that with younger plants you have to be careful to avoid spraying the leaves. If they get soaked with spray, they tend to fall off from over-fertilization. The plants do, however, regrow their leaves and tend to be a lot bigger and brighter afterwards. Plants are greener and the flowers are fuller. We have not used it long enough on the turf grass to see a real change, although I don’t doubt it would work. I’ve even tested it on my home garden and my vegetables really seem to like it. I can not recommend this product enough.


Jen Grella

G-3 Foreman

Turtle Bay Golf

Protecting Honeybees and Native Pollinators

Protecting Honeybees and Native Pollinators

Honeybees and native pollinators visit vegetable crops during flowering and pollen shed. In crops such as cucurbits, their activity is crucial to the success of the crop. In other crops such as sweet corn or potato, bees are among many beneficial insects that seek out pollen or nectar resources as a food source, but crop yield does not depend upon their activity.  Populations of honeybees and native pollinators have declined worldwide in recent years. Many factors have contributed to their decline. Pesticides applied to crops is one of these factors.

Pesticides applied to protect vegetable crops can affect pollinators through multiple routes of exposure: direct contact with sprays, contact with treated surfaces, pesticide-contaminated dust or pollen particles that are collected or adhere to the body of the insect (and may be taken back to hive), and ingestion of pesticide-contaminated nectar. Decisions made by the farmer make a difference in the exposure of bees and other beneficials to toxic levels of pesticides. While pesticides applied to crops are only one among many factors that threaten pollinators, this is one factor that growers can do something about. Taking precautions to minimize pesticide poisoning of pollinators in all crops is an important responsibility of all pesticide applicators.

Steps that can reduce pesticide exposure of pollinators:

Timing.  Avoid applications when crop or weeds are bloom. In crops that bloom over long periods, make applications late in the day or at night when pollinators are not foraging, and so that there is sufficient drying time before foraging begins. Control weeds.

Formulation. Wettable powders, dusts and microencapsulated products have a greater toxic hazard than emulsifiable concentrates (or other liquid formulation with active ingredient in solution). Products that do not have acute toxicity but could cause injury to immature bees if carried back to the hive should not be applied in particulate form; this includes insect growth regulators.

Drying time before exposure. Some products are highly toxic when wet, but much less so after the pesticide is dried. Spinosyns have this characteristic. Apply when there will be adequate drying time (usually 2 to 3 hours, depending on weather conditions and crop canopy) before pollinator activity.

Drift. Avoid drift on non-target areas near the field where blooming plants may be located. Windspeed and application equipment both influence drift.

Mode of application. Soil and seed applications reduce exposure compared to foliar applications, unless plant uptake of the active ingredient produces residues in pollen or nectar. In the case of neonicotinoids, there is evidence that foraging bees may receive sublethal doses in pollen and nectar when cucurbit crops were treated with a systemic at early growth stages. This effect appears to be reduced by using lower rates and applying as early as possible, but may not be entirely eliminated by these methods. A sublethal dose may make bees more vulnerable to other stressors, or may combine with doses from contact with other treated plant material.

Acute toxicity. Avoid applying insecticides rated as High or Medium directly to bees that are actively foraging on blooming crop or weeds. EPA registration includes an acute, single-dose laboratory study designed to determine the quantity of pesticide that will cause 50% mortality (LD50) in a test population of bees.

Read the label for bee hazard rating. If a pesticide is used outdoors as a foliar application, and is toxic to pollinating insects, a “Bee Hazard” warning has generally been required to be included in the Environmental Hazards section of the label. The EPA bee toxicity groupings and label statements are as follows:

High (H) Bee acute toxicity rating: LD50 = 2 micrograms/bee or less. The label has the following statement: “This product is highly toxic to bees and other pollinating insects exposed to direct treatment or residues on blooming crops or weeds. Do not apply this product or allow it to drift to blooming crops or weeds if bees or other pollinating insects are visiting the treatment area.”  If the residues phrase is not present, this indicates that the pesticide does not show extended residual toxicity.
Moderate (M) Product contains any active ingredient(s) with acute LD50 of greater than 2 micrograms/bee but less than 11 micrograms/bee. Statement: “This product is moderately toxic to bees and other pollinating insects exposed to direct treatment or residues on blooming crops or weeds. Do not apply this product if bees or other pollinating insects are visiting the treatment area.”
Low (L) All others. No bee or pollinating insect caution required.

In this guide, Table 28 (Information about Insecticides and Miticides) gives the bee toxicity rating (H, M or L) for each active ingredient. In the Insect Management section for each crop, the bee toxicity rating is given for each insecticide listed.

How to Build a Simple Compost Pile w/Local Materials

Unlike many of my composting experiments, this is a traditional compost pile of alternating layers of carboniferous and nitrogenous materials. The boundary is made from cut limbs hammered into the ground and woven about with palm fronds.

The C/N ratio in this pile should be about perfect with the greens and browns but if it doesn’t get hot enough I can always pour on some diluted urine to raise the nitrogen levels.

This simple compost pile can be set up anywhere in about an hour using local materials. I’ve done this in a cornfield before, cutting and chopping old stalks for the base, then adding on layers of greens and browns. Come back a few months later and harvest your compost!

Here’s a breakdown on the whole process.

Step 1: Cut Stakes

I used sticks cut from some unidentified roadside nitrogen-fixing tree locals use as a windbreak.

It’s a softwood and easy to chop, but you can use anything you like from bamboo to oak to PVC. 4-5′ lengths are good, as you want the pile to reach at least 3′ tall and you need some stake depth to drive into the ground.

Step 2: Install Stakes and Put Down Rough Material

I had already cut up some rough material and thrown it down before putting in the stakes, but it’s better to put in the stakes first.

Cornstalks, hedge trimmings and other rough materials filled with air pockets make a good compost pile foundation. In the case of this pile, I used chopped twigs and leaves from the nitrogen-fixing trees used for the stakes, some jasmine and hibiscus trimmings and a papaya tree.

Step 3: Weave the Sides

I can’t make a good basket, but I’m not bad at simple compost pile weaving.

The idea is to hold in the compost while still allowing some air through into the pile. This also supports the stakes. In a temperate climate you could replace the palm fronds with grape vines, tall grasses, cattails or other plant material.

Step 4: Add some Browns

Gotta get that carbon!

As I state in the video, these leaves have a lot of dirt in them. That soil contains microbes which will help break everything down, so I didn’t bother adding a few shovelfuls of soil as I normally would when making a compost pile.

Step 5: Add some Greens (and Keep Layering!)

Get that nitrogen in there!

Grass clippings are a really good compost pile starter – if you have them, use them.

Just keep laying greens and browns until you’ve made the pile nice and tall. You can also throw in biochar if you have it.

It won’t really help the composting process, but my hope is that it will be charged up with nutrients, bacteria and fungi as the pile rots.

Step 6: Water Well

This is important: composting uses a lot of water, so get some on at the beginning. If most of your materials are dry, you might want to water each layer as you build the pile. I was too lazy to do that so I soaked it from the top before finishing the final covering layer.

Step 7: Cover the Pile

Covering the pile holds in heat and moisture. Sticking with my locally available materials, I used banana leaves.

You can also use a tarp or just another layer of brown leaves. Compost really isn’t a finicky thing to make – it’s will work, even if you don’t do anything “right.”

It’s going to decay and become humus over time, hot or not, perfect ratios or not.

In a few months you can turn this pile over and sift out the good stuff – or just push it around over the garden bed beneath and get planting.

Get out there and get composting – a simple compost pile is all you need.

Our Agronomist Bestows Helpful Growing Tips

Dr. Marco Thiruselvam

B.M.E. (University Malaya, Malaysia); BMM (JAMA, Japan);

Ph.D., Soil Science and Agricultural Chemistry (TNAU, Coimbatore INDIA)

Hi, this is Dr. Marco Thiruselvam with GreenWave Products and I am going to talk about growing tips with AgriPower HGDF.

Before I get into the actual usage tips, I would like to cover some basics on plants’ need for fertilizer.

Soil and sunshine help make plants grow. Dropping leaves, animal and other organic substances that fall on the soil are broken down continually to replenish soil nutrients as food for the growing plants.

Then why do we need to add fertilizers?

The reason is simple, there isn’t enough organic material to provide the necessary nutrients for the plants’ proper growth. Plants compete for nutrients and natural replenishment are sparse, hence the need to add fertilizers to soil or spray over the plants so that the plants keep growing.

ACCORDING to a Survey, less than half of the home gardeners in the US use any kind of fertilizer on their lawns or gardens.

What’s unfortunate about this statistic is that it means gardeners aren’t getting as as much produce as they should.

Disease and insect problems are some of the struggles the farmers face and all these problems could be avoided. Plants that are well-fed are healthier, more productive, less affected by insects and more beautiful.

I’m going to cover the basics of why and how to fertilize your garden:

  • Most soil does not provide the essential nutrients required for optimum growth therefore plants need to be fertilized. Even with great garden soil, as your plants grow, they take up nutrients and the soil becomes less fertile .
  • Those great tomatoes and beautiful roses that you grew last year took nutrients from the soil to build those plant tissues.
  • By applying fertilizers to your garden, lost nutrients are replenished and this year’s plants will have the food they need to grow healthy and give good yields.

Let’s talk about Organic vs. Synthetic

Do plants really care where they get their nutrients?

  • Yes, because organic and synthetic fertilizers provide nutrients in different ways. Organic fertilizers are made from naturally occurring mineral deposits and organic material, such as bone or plant meal or composted manure or seaweed or humic acid or fulvic acid.
  • On the other hand, Synthetic fertilizers are made by chemically processing raw materials.
  • AgriPower HGDF stimulates beneficial soil microorganisms and improves the structure of the soil. Soil microbes play an important role in converting organic material in AgriPower HGDF into soluble nutrients that can be absorbed by your plants. AgriPower HGDF will provide all the secondary and micronutrients your plants need.

This is because AgriPower works in 3 ways when sprayed onto the leaves and stems and also on the soil.  First as a foliar fertiliser where the nutrients are absorbed immediately, second as a soil rejuvenator and third by supplying the nutrients via the roots in more slow acting form.

Think of synthetic fertilisers as steroids as they give plants a quick boost but do little to improve soil texture, stimulate soil micro-organisms, or improve your soil’s long-term fertility.

Because synthetic fertilizers are highly water-soluble, they can also leach out into streams and ponds and cause considerable damage.

Feeding your plants by building the soil with AgriPower HGDF will provide long term health benefits to your garden. This will give you soil that is rich in organic matter and teeming with microbial life.

Foliar Feeding

Plants can absorb nutrients 8 to 20 times more efficiently through their leaf surfaces than through their roots. As a result, spraying foliage with AgriPower HGDF liquid nutrients can produce remarkable yields.

For best results, spray plants during their critical growth stages such as transplanting time, blooming time and just after fruit sets.

For detailed application instruction, please check with your local distributor or the application instruction that came with your purchase of AgriPower HGDF or online under “Information Avenue” and then Application ratios.

A lot of people ask me about pH and its relationship to soil nutrients..

Some nutrients cannot be absorbed by plants if the soil pH is too high or too low, even if your soil has enough nutrients in it. For most plants, soil pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0. A soil test will measure the pH of your soil. You can send a sample to a lab  or buy a home kit and do it yourself. Lime or wood ash can be used to raise pH; sulfur or aluminum sulfate can lower pH.

Keep in mind that it’s best to raise or lower soil pH slowly over the course of a year or two. Dramatic adjustments can result in the opposite extreme, which may be worse than what you started with.

Once again, a helpful solution is to apply AgriPower HGDF. AgriPower HGDF moderates soil pH and is one of the best ways to maintain the 6.5 ideal.

Fertilizers offered by Greenwave Products are either all-organic, or contain primarily organic materials.

To build the long-term health and fertility of your soil, we recommend using AgriPower HGDF. AgriPower HGDF ensures that your plants have the nutrients they need when they’re in active growth.

Now that you have purchased AgriPower HGDF and would like to know some important tips on maximizing AgriPower HGDF’s usage and potential, I am going to tell you how:

  • First and foremost, ensure that you only dilute the recommended dosage as per the packing or as detailed in the resource page
  • Some of you might feel that it is too little, but trust me, using more than the recommended dosage will only stunt the growth of your plants.
  • When spraying on your plants, make sure that you give it a light spray rather than wetting the plant.
  • Spray about a third on the leaves and stems and the rest onto the soil around the plant. DO NOT spray on flowers or buds.
  • You can either spray before watering the plant or after. Remember, do not wet spray the plants. AgriPower is highly concentrated and even in its diluted form is very potent.
  • The time of the spraying is vital too. Make sure you spray early in the morning before the sun gets hot or during sunset. This is because in the early morning and during sunset, the pores or stomatas in leaves are open and able to absorb the fertilizer more effectively.
  • Do not spray during midday sun as this would cause spotting on the leaves as the liquid will dry up fast and concentrated nutrients will remain on the leaves and this can cause burn or spotting.
  • If by accident, you over-sprayed or used higher dosage than the recommended dosage, flush the plants with water. The plants should be fine.

As for storage, do not store AgriPower HGDF under direct sunlight, best would be to store in a shed under normal temperatures.

AgriPower HGDF in its powder form can be stored during winters without any need for a heated room.

I guess that’s about it for growing tips with Greenwave Products. Please consult with your distributor or contact Greenwave Products via our website if you have any questions with regards to the usage of AgriPower HGDF.

Bye for now….Dr. Marco Thiruselvam